Showing posts with label ryokan. Show all posts
Showing posts with label ryokan. Show all posts

Sunday, 13 October 2013

Temples, Geishas, Monkeys and Manga : Our Kyoto Top 5

Good morning, good day, and good evening world!

So we have decided to try something a little different for our next post. Instead of giving you a blow-by-blow of all our experiences in lovely Kyoto, we are going to outline our five favourite sights we saw in the city. This is by no means a comprehensive list, we saw and did plenty of things in Kyoto, but if you were to ask us what are the MUST SEE attractions, this top five should be at the top of your list. In no particular order:
This monkey looked like he was none to happy to have his picture taken. "Damn you, paparazzi!"
1) Tour of Arashiyama: Home of the Bamboo Grove and Monkey Park

I think he was only there to check out the ladies
It should come as no surprise to you folks that the area containing a monkey reserve would make this list. Mike’s adoration for all things monkey is bordering on obsessive and this long trek up a winding, steep and picturesque mountain is definitely worth your trouble. The view from the top alone is worth the trip, but in addition, you are also treated with the company of a family of over 200 plus Japanese macaques. You’ll tread lightly as you snap photos of Kyoto from up on high, all the while making sure not to step on any wayward tails, or god forbid, baby monkeys. For a small fee (only 300 yen!) you can also buy a bag of diced fruit which you can feed to the monkeys, from inside a caged cabin of course. Do this and you’ll instantly become the most popular person on monkey mountain.

Yup, that's a lot of bamboo.

Reach for the sky!

If wild animals aren’t your thing (and when it comes to monkeys, god only knows why), you’re in luck because Arashiyama also has one of the most beautiful natural sights we’ve ever seen, the spectacular bamboo grove. This path through a park leads you straight through a bamboo forest with trees reaching up to the sky as far as you can see. Temples and shrines are also nestled in the park and seem to appear out of nowhere as they emerge from the sea of green. At the end of the path, you’ll also have the option of paying 1000 yen (approx. $10 CDN) to enter the Okochi Sanso villa. This spacious property was once owned by one of the most famous Japanese samurai movie star and is quite impressive in and of itself, but at the end of the long walk you’ll also be treated to a cup of matcha tea and cake which definitely helps with the relaxation after having to make your way through hundreds of Chinese tourists (who will no doubt end up in a large portion of your pictures).

2) Ginkaku-ji and the Path of Philosophy
How very philosophical!

In the mood for a bit of enlightenment? Who isn’t, am I right? Well you’ve come to the right place! Kyoto is home to hundreds of temples and shrines and while you may get sick of temple-hopping after experiencing a handful of them, we’ve decided to highlight our favourites to save you the trouble of narrowing it down. First up is the Ginkaku-ji. This temple is located at the end of a long winding path built next to a small canal. The path, called Tetsugaku-no-Michi, or more commonly “The Path of Philosophy,” a fantastically tranquil (albeit long) walk along the canal. It is far enough away from the main roads that you barely hear any of the hustle and bustle of busy Kyoto and is particularly beautiful in the fall as the leaves of all the surrounding trees begin to change.
No, this wasn't taken with a fish-eye lens.
Follow this path to the end and you’ll reach one of Kyoto’s top sights, the Ginkaku-ji.  What sets this temple apart is its immaculately maintained zen garden, complete with groomed white sand. The sand is not merely raked, as with most zen gardens, but is actually built into small sand sculptures. In addition to the sand, the garden itself is full of tiny shrines found in the middle of forest groves, ponds and cave rock that make it even more unique than your typical temple. Finally, if the walk doesn’t turn your crank, there are dozens of rickshaw operators who will eagerly bring you up the hill to your final destination (all for a small/hugely expensive fee of course).
I hope we're going the right way.
3) Gion at Night

After a long day of walking, why not end your night with even more walking! That’s just what we did and clocking in at over 20 kilometres, we decided we weren’t quite tapped out (or just refused to admit it to each other) and headed to the entertainment and geisha district of Kyoto, Gion. This area is home to Hanami-koji, which some call the most beautiful street in all of Asia. After experiencing its lantern lit, cobble stoned street, we inclined to agree (although we’ve yet to visit all of Asia, so take our opinion for what it’s worth). This street is full of high-end restaurants and teahouses, and while it ended up costing us a pretty penny, the food and the service at the restaurant we chose, Wabiya Korekido, was well worth the expense. Our seven course meal was made directly in front of us and even required a bit of work on our part too. Nothing too major though, stirring mostly. Even Mike can’t really screw that up!
It's a beautiful walk until you almost get run over by a car. You can even see one poking through the crowds.

Delicious, even if you have to do a bit of work.
They look so sad, even if they're dancing was beautiful.
As mentioned earlier, Gion is the geisha district of Kyoto and wandering around the area, you’ll probably happen to run into one or two walking around, entertaining a group of businessmen. It took a lot of effort on our part not to rudely interrupt and snap a picture of these unique hostesses. Thankfully, Hanami-koji is also home to the Gion Corner, which is found at the end of the street and is comprised of an hour-long show which explains and performs a variety of different Japanese cultural traditions, including our favourite, the geisha dance. This was actually quite inexpensive (for Japan standards) and if you can deal with 50 plus annoying tourists snapping pictures of the presenters during their performances, it is well worth experiencing.

4) Kinkaku-ji Temple

Our final temple on the list is the golden floating pavilion of Kinkaku-ji. As Kyoto is jam-packed with various temples and shrines, it really does take something unique to really stand out. The first temple we saw in Japan was amazing, but when you realize that there are basically hundreds more pretty much like it, visiting each of them becomes quite rote. Thankfully, the Kinkaku-ji temple stands out as not only one of the top sights in Kyoto, but perhaps one of the top in all of Japan. This golden palace is planted on the edge of an amazing pond which, weather permitting, is still as glass and reflects the image of the temple in beautiful, jaw-dropping splendor that can only exist in nature. Unfortunately, this is one of the top sights in Japan and crowds of Japanese elementary school students and busloads of Chinese tourists are pretty much unavoidable. If you can stomach large, pushy crowds and interrupting hundreds of posed photos, than we definitely recommend a visit.
You've got to love how gold shimmers in the sunshine!

4) The Kyoto International Manga Museum

MANGA
A poster for the museum's special exhibit
If you know anything about Mike, then you know there was no way we were going to turn down the opportunity to visit a museum devoted entirely to the appreciation of the comic book storytelling. This facility, which is a former 18th century Japanese school, is absolutely filled to the brim with every manga series imaginable (over 300,000 copies at last count). For those not in the know, manga is Japan’s version of comic books. The Japanese treat this medium very differently than we do back home though and the fact that they have a museum devoted entirely to the explanation, preservation and appreciated of both the storytelling and the art of manga should illustrate just how seriously Japan takes its comic books. While we couldn’t really grab a book, sit down and read a few chapters like many of the Japanese patrons, we did still enjoy flipping through, enjoying the art and learning about the history of not only manga, but illustrated storytelling in general. Mike particularly appreciated the section devoted to “American Manga” as it was nice to see Superman, Batman and Spider-Man get their artistic due in a museum, even if it was half a world away. The museum even offers workshops for those interested in learning and honing their own manga drawing skills, unfortunately these were only offered on weekends and missed that particular opportunity.


Unfortunately we weren't allowed to take pictures in the museum, so this is the best you'll get. Sorry!
Walking the halls of the museum, we heard the booming voice of one traditionally-dressed Japanese man. As we followed his voice, we found him in front of a crowd of people, standing next to an odd display case which contained sliding pictures. We learned this was called kami-shibai (a humorous traditional Japanese sliding-picture show) and even though we didn’t understand a word this man was saying, his exuberance and knack for story-telling came broke through the language barrier. Mike even won Maja a replacement for her wedding ring by correctly identifying Astro Boy in one of the sliding pictures! Now if only he can talk her into selling the old one and using the plastic replacement, we’ll have an extra few dollars ready for our next trip! And before you ask: Yes, Maja did indeed actually enjoy the Manga Museum so it is well worth the trip even if you are not a comic fan!

We hope you enjoyed our list of our favourite Kyoto sights and we hope they will be useful if you ever plan on visiting the area. We definitely recommend the city as it’s an excellent combination of the quiet peacefulness of a small town like Takayama, with the interesting sights and experiences that are found in a larger city like Tokyo. All of the pluses, none of the minuses!
Dressed up and ready for our Shabu-Shabu dinner at our Kyoto Ryokan.
Let us know if you prefer this new format for our posts, we had a lot of fun putting it together, debating which sights will make it and which will end up on the chopping block. We even had fun trying to desperately to recover this file when we thought it was lost when the laptop unexpectedly shutdown. Okay, so that last part wasn’t so fun, but it was an experience nonetheless.

Namaste,
M&M


P.S. As for the Mike/fish situation, check out the following story told via pictures:
 

 


Thursday, 3 October 2013

Day 4 & 5: Speeding away from Tokyo Madness to Tranquil Takayama

Good morning, good day and good evening world!
The magnificent Torii that greets you as you enter Meiji-jingu
If you thought Tokyo couldn't get any wetter, well you thought wrong! Just on our short walk to breakfast, it started raining and it didn't stop. We hustled to a French boulangerie, Viron, in Shibuya which was recommended by Lonely Planet. We thought 340 Yen ($3.60 CAN) for a tall coffee at Starbucks was pricey, but a simple coffee at Viron was 660 Yen ($7.00 CAN)!
Yikes! But this didn't stop us from getting a croque monsieur, abricot croissant and a chocolate eclair! Everything was magnifique and the restaurant honestly made you feel like you were in Paris, the menu was even in français, much to our benefit. Although this was probably the most expensive breakfast we've eaten, it was worth every Yen.
This picture is ex-STREAM!!

Our next stop was Gwen Stefani's favorite neighbourhood, Harajuku. This area is the shopping capital of Tokyo with hundreds and hundreds of shops lining the streets. (Un)fortunately, we didn't see any of these shops, instead we walked to the Meiji-jingu shrine, the largest Shinto shrine in Tokyo. Before arriving, you pass a number of Torii (gates). These are the famous double T type gates that you picture when you think of Japan. They are extremely eye-catching. At this point, there was a torrential downpour and despite being equipped with raincoats and umbrellas, we got completely soaked. Sadly, it was hard to appreciate the beauty of the shrine with these weather conditions. The Torii were definitely the most impressive part of this sight. 
Be honest, does it really surprise you that much
that Japan has a Hello Kitty store?

The most frustrating thing about our experience in Tokyo was getting lost and endlessly searching (and mostly never finding) many of the sights/shops/restaurants/bars. As we exited the Meiji-jingu shrine from a different gate, we looked for the nearest recommended restaurant. Little did we know that we actually walked more than 2 subway stops away from the shrine, all in heavy rain. We finally reached Takashimaya Times Square, department store in Shinjuku where we warmed up with some tea and beef tongue. Very chewy but delicious! After exploring the mall, we left empty handed but with full stomachs.

Since we explored the male geek district the day before, it was only time to explore the female geek district in Ikebukuro. No matter what neighbourhood we were in and no matter what time of day it was, it seemed like there were constantly people out and about eating, shopping or playing arcade games, and Ikebukuro was no exception. We browsed a 7-floor anime store that lost Maja's interest after the 2nd floor. Oh and we felt no trip to Japan would be complete without a stop-over at the Hello Kitty store which was as adorable (and pink) as you would expect.
You can tell that these Anime characters are designed for women because all the men look like little girls
Exhausted as we were, some more than others, we ventured off to the Golden Gai area of Shinjuku. Golden Gai is made up of over 300 bars, each one smaller than the next, some are even smaller than a typical walk-in closest. The options were overwhelming and you could probably spend your entire trip going from bar to bar.
Maja barely fits in this stairwell leading to this shoebox sized bar in Golden Gai
In normal Tokyo fashion, we quickly and efficient left the chaos to a city buried in the Japanese Alps via bullet train. The shinkansen (bullet train) goes somewhere between 240 km/h to 320 km/h. The train went so fast that we even missed spotting Mount Fuji. After a five hour trip, we finally made it to refreshing Takayama. We checked into our Japanese style inn, Asunaro Ryokan, which was out of this world. The staff greeted us with slippers and showed 
us to our room, which was more like our own little Japanese-style condo. The tatami rooms featured a living area, futon beds, a day room for relaxing, and a private bathroom that featured a high-tech toilet with it's own sink. Guests are also given their own yukata, a casual summer kimono. Surprised by her size, the hotel manager had to replace Maja's yukata with what he called "a Japanese-sized" one. This ryokan also had some great little knick-knacks decorating the halls that had Maja giggling with joy.
Maja's ability to blend in with the local Japanese is uncanny.

Maja's favourite Japanese Grandpa
Our ryokan also offered free bikes for their guests, so we ventured off through the streets of Takayama via bike. It didn't take too long before we parked them though, opting instead to walk through the old centre of town, Sanmachi-suji. This part of the town is made up of three streets filled with traditional shops, restaurants, museums, and sake breweries. The traditional shops had wide ranging souvenirs from little figurines to yukatas to samurai wooden swords. We ended the evening with a decadent dinner at Kyoya, a charming little restaurant where we sat cross legged by charcoal grill. Mike chose the hida beef that you cooked yourself on the charcoal grill while Maja indulged in an enormous meal of sashimi, deep-fried prawns, miso soup, buckwheat noddles, rice and apricot Japanese liqueur, umeshu. The meal was succulent and the staff was extremely friendly, talkative and offered gifts of appreciation. We returned the favour with Canadian flag pins and maple candy. They were so humbled and were eager to pose for a picture with Maja. Now we are going to enjoy the peace and quiet in our ryokan with a relaxing soak in the on-site onsen (Japanese hot springs). 
The friendly and generous staff of Kyoya, Maja's new best friends.
Namaste,
M&M